“You can’t go home again” says Thomas Wolfe, and i’m cool with that as i don’t have a “home” however, there a few spots in the world that i always yearn to return to – one of which is Misasa Onsen, a small mountain town in Tottori-ken (prefecture) Japan (note: pop. approx 6500) which boasts hotsprings with exceptionally high levels of Radon/Radium (is this good for you? i dunno, not a chemist – note: radon is the gas-form).
The folklore says (as per the town’s name which translates to “Three Mornings”) that staying and bathing here for three days will cure you of all your ills. As Radium was discovered by French scientist Marie Curie, the town celebrates all things France with a statue, festival and park dedicated to the wise lady, and other Franco-accruements.
I first happened upon the town when invited to a Pétanque (a French version of bocce, lawn bowling, boules etc) in order to make the tourney truly “international” – i was rounded up with the other scattered foreigners in the area.
I drove my little “K-truck” up over the mountain pass (warned not to do so but…) and upon arrival was ushered about town by busy supervisors. First, we were treated to a wild meal of “death by tiny plates” with the mayor and town officials. I was starving after a long day at the mushroom where i toiled and just wanted a big feed rather than so many delicacies, but anyhow, the drinks flowed and flowed and flowed – beer to wine, to sake, to whiskey to cognac and all this led to karaoke (in Yuakata / summer kimonos and geta / wooden sandals), then late-night soak in the rotenburo (outdoor hot pool) in the river – not wise.
The hangover the next day was epic / legendary in all the wrong ways, especially as we were feted and introduced, then easily trounced in the matches, then had to hang out all day at the sports field sun. Ugh.
Anyhow, undeterred, I also attended the next year’s tourney simply as a spectator and once again visited with the Mayor who well, might still be the mayor considering Japan’s exceptional life expectancy. {update: as of 2018, still alive]
Overall i returned to the town several times just to sit in the outdoor rock tubs on the side of the river.
The local Ryokan (trad hotels) all have hot spring baths inside but i am a modest man (monetarily) and immodest man (physically) so i kick it in the outdoor pools in sight of the passers-by, au natural style (this was particularly fun/ny when viewed from behind when i sported long blonde locks).
Notably, the town has other historical significance with ancient sites and treasures which are worthy of various significant designations, as well as a violin museum – i’ve never visited any other of these as i am well… simply there for the silky radioactive water.
Here is an assortment of artifacts to add photographic evidence to my tales.
There’s also a podcast sharing the drunken story of Pétanque tourney (whilst appropriately a wee bit buzzed) in Austin, TX with another cohort.
The mayor looks like a cardboard cutout. And perhaps is…
Been saying same thing for years / checked in and, as of 2 years ago, still alive. Wanna reconnect. Let’s go!
Dear Ted,
I went back for seven days but turned into nine days due to weather cancellation of highway bus. Took some creative city bus and train connections cruising through some of our old stomping grounds on a roundabout course back to the cottage.
Anyhow, I thought maybe was because of the season, February, I was visiting but the town seemed hollowed out, bleary, bit sad – but with a very extravagant and entirely useless tourist center.
Stores were shuttered so long that they still had posters from four Prime Minister ago (although I guess that’s not all that long ago).
I visited the free foot baths, soaked often in the magnificent riverside outdoor bath (With bits of snow and occasional glimpses of Orion and the moon), plus visited the ¥400, 46° source bath (and was joined by two very well tattooed Goodfellas for a while) With the statue of the Buddhist Warrior monk and the White Wolf dog of legend in front. Possibly inappropriately, I sat down and played ukulele for them.
Stayed at a Touji inn – spartan, un-fancy, fully self-service, not charming per se but with two baths and a hot room (ondol) – Cheap and semi-cheerful
I took copies of the photo of me and the mayor and gave to a few shopkeepers and the tour info center but everyone seem confused that I was there in 1993 and for some reason, I’ve come back hmmmm.
I also visited the statue of scientist Madame Marie Curie who sits a bit lonely in the corner of a parking lot of a massive empty hotel.
Of course there are video diaries of all of the above some of which include very mediocre ukulele accompaniment along with Discourse about the nuance of radon and radium, hearing the rattle of shrine bells through the steamed windows, acquiring oranges, and listening to cassette tapes.
Regardless, I still do not have an answer about whether the old mayor is still alive and kicking at probably 110 years old which is entirely possible, Given the powers of radon and all of that.