Unnecessary Preamble: part 2 of a trip to Nagasaki in February 2020 – we were in pregnancy mode, visiting relatives, catching adventure and notably, the “public health emergency” which consumed the world the subsequent year arrived, quite literally on the shores while we were there. these filed notes are incomplte and well over due yet feel “important” as were a unique time in our story
{my pardons for missing sections and redundancies with Nagasaki ramble part 1 – there is a subsequent Nagasaki trip in 2023 as well… sheesh – anyhow, carry-on
Notes include:
- Abacus tournament
- Grilled meats and famous noodles
- Old public bath
- Quirky coffee shops
- Atomic bomb museum
- Experiencing four seasons of weather in three days
- Visit to Dejima
- Visit to Gunkanjima (Battleship island)
- Of course more trains, trams and so on
- Maybe post boxes, payphones and so on, probably anyway
- im such a mess
Contemporaneous notes follow (there is also a fantastic analog scrapbook somewhere):
Feb. 16 2020, Nagasaki
Taking a little ramble down to Nagasaki this week to drink coffee, eat snacks, check out some museums, peace park and the old Dutch trading island.
Plus, we have a little two-year-old relative having some health problems and sequestered in the hospital so will try to bring some cheer and support.
I will also attempt to not steal the pajamas at the hotel. This is not guaranteed.
(Really) mostly going just so I can add to my collection of photos of Ryoko eating cake or drinking tasty beverages (or eating Ramen). It’s all very important.
{Of course didn’t realize it would be years until our next time out of Okayama prefecture // 2 years feels like 2 weeks or 20 years depending on the day.}
Update: Rain & wind this morning in Nagasaki / glad we rambled whilst sun shining.
Now: taxi to a station to a coin locker to a train to an abacus event. #masking #style
Lucky taxi indeed
Lucky coffee too
Coffee, lucky & great
Train livery / so elegant
Riding that/this train…
Bending space & time / Endlessly amused
Abacus Event
So now we are at a community centre is a semi-rural area.
Wide, clean & well lit. In a hall with rows of tables of kids (6-9 years old) sorting out complicated math problems while parents sit nervously watching and scribbling notes (or playing games on phone).
The stage features a serious lady rapidly reciting strings of numbers into a mic – squads of uniformed older kids collect papers after each puzzle & a flop-haired gent ringleads the little squadron of docents – also, majestic trophies await victors.
Saturday morning in Japan
The kids work rapidly &
without quarrel or squirming
One more coffee, please
So this first part was pencils,
out come soroban (abacus) / getting wild!
PS we are here for Hina-chan
[Not going to in insert video because kids]
Recap: this was my first event of its kind… And we were on a mission to go cheer on our little cousin. It was a great anthropological expedition for sure as i got to see things scant foreigners (or locals for that matter) have ever seen. Instead of helicopter parents hollering at their kids and providing juice boxes every 15 minutes, this was young kids, sitting earnestly at desks, solving complicated math problems with ancient instruments. No squirming, no hollering or complaining, no parental interference. It was truly beautiful and then they all got certificates and medals and took photos and everything. And somehow the kids had a great time doing it. Keep in mind these kids were 6 to 8 years old. And it was a Saturday morning.
Update: super interesting to observe but I am hoping Ichiro chooses a different hobby. That said, if he’s into the abacus, I’m going to be the best freaking abacus supporting dad (meaning standing quietly in the corner, not disturbing the events, and politely bowing at the end)
Asides:
Stormy! Did i mention umbrella (purchased in a sudden Montreal summer storm) caught a gust of wind here & struts snapped in my hand? Yup. Might abandon here as no longer operable.
Taxi driver said might snow tomorrow. What?!?
Confession:
Also ‘borrowed’ from hotel:
- nightshirt (1)
- coffee cup (1)
- notepad & pen (1)
Phones
in community centre,cafes, museums etc for enthusiasts & collectors (of course)
Out n About
New accoms means drop off gear
Lucky coin locker (for cacheing gear for traveling light)
Hospital Mission
Yesterday, we visited Nagasaki University Hospital to see a little cousin who is dealing with a brain tumor. We visited with the courageous little trooper and the family for a little while, then made our way to hospital family accommodation set in amongst a bunch of shrines in a traditional house with giant trees, got ourselves settled, then went out for a public bath.
Stamping Fun
Here are a few stamps collected in Nagasaki… many attractions, museums, etc. have a “stamp rally” activity with stamp pad stations set up around – sometimes with the special sheet to stamp, sometimes you just stamp in your handy notebook – or my case, both.
Later that night… bathtime
Along the way, we stopped for a soak in this “sento” public bath.
This place was old and battered and lost in Showa time. The “boss’ chair” was empty when we arrived so we just went in, eventually the owner (I assume) came around, we paid him or 350 and each, then he stripped down and hopped in the tub as well.
Then for us, back through with the slick dark streets (#Nagasaki is like a mini San Francisco with all the hills and curves and corners) to our futon and tatami mats.
Remember those blue skies and palm trees the other day… Well, meanwhile this morning in Nagasaki… As viewed from our little temporary temple house.
About that Virus
Noting the date – Feb. 2020 – was when the diamond princess cruise ship was quarantined in Yokohama with unconfirmed conjecture about a deadly virus entering the country… As such, we were beautifully masked however, news had not reached the rest of the world and comments and questions came in which now seem delightfully naïve though well intention at the time, ergo:
Doug in T.O.: “You look beautiful. Does everyone wear the masks. Out of necessity or just to be trendy”
I replied, “masks in Japan are common to see especially in crowded/transportation places… It’s more for people who might be coming down with something to prevent spreading as a social courtesy. In this case, because we are on the go around a busy tourist city, riding trains, tramways, taxis, hotel lobbies etc., we put them on from time to time just as a bit of a preventative hygiene method. That said, no excuse required to wear a mask in Japan. Also worth noting that it’s gone from hot/ tropical to snowy/rainy/windy in a few days time so just been a little bit extra careful, especially the pregnant wife.”
J.C. In USA: “Are you wearing masks because of c0r0navïrus? Are there any cases in Japan mainland?”
I replied, “yes there are multiple reported cases as well as a quarantined cruise ship with hundreds of cases in Yokohama. The hysteria is kind of beginning, breathless accounts in newspapers, canceled emperor’s birthday celebration, now adding restrictions to upcoming Tokyo marathon – however, our primary concern with the masks is just preventing common colds and “regular” flu since we are traveling through different climates and in various transportation center/hotel lobbies etc.
Anyhow, On our way on a rainy day…
we carry on…
Nagasaki Museum of History & Culture PS Closed
About that Bomb
more re: nagasaki & peace
More about peace and war:
Meanwhile, famous noodles & more food (unannotated)
Missing outings to Gankajima and Dejima
Switching locations – there’s a section that should go here about going to see “battleship Island” a beautiful lovers gate and other locations with the fella from this noodle shop, super friendly dude “Koba san” who just kind of packed up and invited us into his car for an impromptu outing. He loves fishing
oh I found a contemporaneous snippet
He knocked off the job and loaded us up in his car for a coastal drive to gaze the remnants of a coal factory mining island (noted in various films).
Plus the related museum displaying the challenges of life on an industrial enclave which was for a while a “fully functioning” city and the most densely populated place on earth.
While every day is a romantic interlude with my Darling wife, appropriately today we viewed the battleship island from “wedding“ rocks complete with a Torii gate, and much fun conversation.
Now a rest, then perhaps a walk to explore the Dutch outposts from long-ago days before the “black ships “ obliged Japan to open up. (missing photos, wait for another time)
More food in case i forgot
My Head:
Anyway: there’s another part where I felt like I was having a brain aneurysm from all the pressure changes of the trains and weather patterns, I went to a chiropractic place to try to relieve the pain and they were kind of dickheads but that’s another storypain and they were kind of dickheads but that’s another story
i went to the hospital to get checked out once we got home because the head pain was so intense (Ed note: five years later, still a problem, getting lidocaine injections into the point] ~~~ 5 years!
Coffee and Tea and Such
Way Home (more trains)
2 trains
(R) a “tokyū” limited express
& (L) “shinkansen” super express
For me, the tokyu class are great! travel “at grade” for max views, extra wide comfy seats, this one has wooden parquet floors in various patterns!
I love these “at – grade” class trains as they are wider, have beautiful touches like parquet floors, lounge cars and viewing areas // which you can see in the photo along with the usual photo (ed note: missing) of my boots, yes these cheap and cheerful chukkas which took me into the Himalayas, along with my stolen suitcase of treasures which earned its stickers.
For me? Shinkansen is a bit toooo much speed, sensory overload / both plenty quick of course.
Snaps from aboard Kamome tokyu service train from Hakata <> Nagasaki
The service car is a fantastically-designed lounge with big picture windows, wooden work counters, a separate telephone room, a toilet bigger than some Tokyo apartments, a rack of magazines called “please” and a mix of traditional and contemporary art.
I wanna roll roll roll… and you?
Luckiest city in history. Do you know why?
For for pedantics: Kamome service Hakata<>Nagasaki & Nozomi service Hakata <> Okayama
updated note: the Kamome service has now been “upgraded” to Shinkansen as of 20 22–3 (I can’t recall but we rode it summer of 2023 which means I’ll get a dispatch out sometime around 2030)
Even more trains and trams
Furthering this conversation, i present a video of trains (and trams) in and around Nagasaki, including the Kamome limited express and the gorgeous Sea Side Liner, among a variety of adorable streetcars in both modern and vintage rolling stock style.Added a bit of music and text-scroll for additional observations. Let me know whatcha think.
Analog Version
note about scrapbook (from another place): This one is well, it’s pretty awesome… from our trip in February (which seems like 1 million years ago) to a remarkable city to visit cousins, ride trains, see some sites, and eat all the food. As such: Tidbits from museums, cafés etc. included, plus various snapshots and notes. Just about done…, But I always say that.
There are the things that go into the scrapbook and then the things that don’t quite fit or more often, duplicates of things which are definitely worth keeping – for either practical purposes or to re-purpose the paper bits for another project. In this case, extra things from the Nagasaki journal. See above for evidence ^^
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Bonus: Lawrence Ferlinghetti Remembered in Japan =
For those of you gathering, creating, archive, curating obits, tributes and articles about “Mr. 101” Lawrence Ferlinghetti, (City Lights/ poet/ painter/ publisher/ beacon) here’s another dispatch from the English language Japan Times to add your round-ups & scrapbooks.
PS LF experienced a seminal moment in his life in Nagasaki shortly after the bomb in his Naval days sparking his pacifism after coming across the literal horrors.
https://www.japantimes.co.jp/culture/2021/02/24/books/lawrence-ferlinghetti-obit
{Pardon brevity of this note but if anyone is seeking more links about Mr Ferlinghetti, “the beat generation” writers in general and JK, AG, GS, MM, et al specifically, i maintain an “saved link” archive of hundreds to make your own rabbit hole. Will share upon request.}
Oh yeah, i also have loads of Nagasaki artifacts and riffs about City Lights, Beat Museum, Jack Kerouac Alley and counter-culture musings from San Francisco if you have a notion. You know where to find the goods…
